Wanted: Good photograph of the west face of Mt Huxley

We are seeking a good clear photograph of the west face of Mt Huxley and its outliers. The photograph is wanted so that the routes can be shown on all of the faces of the Huxley group.  If you are able to help, then please contact us by email at barronbrewster@alpineclub.org.nz

Twin Stream

Tachycardia (2 pitches; 22, 23)
On Shindig through the Heart and finishes on Lunch edge.
Steve Carr, Jonathon Clearwater, November 2003

Hot Wings (1 pitch; 24)
On Wingers Wall
Bill Bradshaw, April 2004

Wrinkle Buttress, 0.5 hour downstream
English Summer Daze (3 pitches: 18, 18, 18)
Begin 100m upstream and uphill from the prominent bulgy face with a roof at top on true left of Twin Stream. Ledges at end of each pitch.
Steve Carr, Jonathon Clearwater, November 2003

Mr Fizz (3 pitches; 14, 15, 22)
First pitch angles right, second pitch climbs left, the two stars third follows a crack system.
Bill Bradshaw, Steve Carr. April 2004

January Hare (1 pitch; 16; 30m)
From the top of March Hare, climb the left face and arete to the top of the pinnacle. Protection is trad. Abseil off a bollard.
Cliff Ellery, Richard Knot, January 2009

Dasler Pinnacles, North Face Routes

These are the known routes on the north/west face of the Dasler Pinnacles. From left to right, the routes are Bestowed (red), Fly on little wing (winter ascent – yellow), Bedazzled (light blue), Flywheel (orange), Petit Peuterey D (dark blue). There may be additional routes and we do not have a lot of information on several of the indicated routes. if you have any additions, comments or corrections, please email them to barronbrewster@alpineclub.org.nz

Pk2414m

Grade 2

Climb the steepening couloir from the head of Ahuriri /Hunter col. The route is 350m of mostly easy angled terrain with a 50-60 degree section near top before gaining the chossy ridge 50m east of the summit.

Tony Clarke, Andrew Somervell, November 2008

North Ridge, Pk1975m

Grade 2

Begin at the pronounced rock butress at NZMS498687 and follow the ridge to the reach a point just to the east of Pk1975. A rope may be needed in places on the lower section. It is easy to traverse off the ridge once above the lower butress.

Paul Hersey, Scott Blackford-Scheele, September 2008

NW Ridge, Mt Isabel

Grade 3- (Crux grade 14)

Traverse around the north side of Awatea Peak to access Isabel-Awatea Col. From the col, climb the ridge for about 150m on excellent rock at around grade 10/11. A short, exposed, rising traverse at around grade 12 (one 45m pitch) leads to an easy ledge and the base of a short steep corner. The corner is the crux of the route and goes at about grade 14. From the top of the corner, about 130m of steep scrambling leads to the summit. Descent was via the NE ridge (the original ascent route) to the Isabel-Eric Col, then down a short icefall back to the base of the route. The divide ridge was appallingly loose rock over several steep towers and the first ascensionists did three short abseils to get through.

Rob Frost, Simon Mills, March 2008

West Face, Peak 2151m

Grade 1 

Easy after breakfast walk up the valley due east of Top Hut.

Ross Cullen, March 2008

South West Face, Peak 2090m

8 pitches, crux grade 16-17

South Huxley

The face is broken into two tiers separated by a 200m wide scree terrace. The lower tier is 3 pitches in length plus scrambling (crux grade 14) and the upper tier is 5 pitches plus scrambling (crux 16-17). The rock was variable in quality, but it is possible to pick a route which avoids the dark brown/black choss. The good rock on the steep upper tier was mostly light grey with vertical shallow seams and just enough protection. Descent was by the loose knife-edged ridge to the south east.

Tony Clarke,  Hadley Slade-Jones, February 2008 

Mt Glen Lyon 2050m

Access
From the lower Hopkins valley, cross the Hopkins river and ascend the scree-filled gully leading north east toward the summit of the outlier of Glen Lyon to access a 500m high apline rock slab.

Climbs are described from left to right

Vote for Pedro (8-10 pitches, Crux Grade 15 – marked in blue)
Begin around 100m up into the gut, and climb the reasonably obvious diagonal corner to Dereks Escape Ledge at mid height. From there, climb the next pitch of Late Bloomer and traverse left (crux) to the arete. Climb two further pitches up the arete to the top.
Carl Schiller, Matteo Scoz, February 2008.

 Tenderfoot (8-10 pitches, crux grade 14-15, alpine grade 3+)
Climb the slab from left to right, topping out near 1900m contour.
Paul Hersey, Mat Woods May 2004, Paul Hersey and Shelly Graham, completed February 2005

Late Bloomer (8-10 pitches, crux grade 17)
Mat Woods, Dave Morgan, February 2005.

Vote for Hillary (6 pitches, crux grade 14/15)
Six pitches to the outlier, short scramble and two abseils off.
Paul Hersey, Mat Woods, January 2007.

Chossy Mossy (4 pitches, crux grade 15) 
Follow a wide crack followed by broken ledges just right of a huge overhanging scoop. Stemming crux is through overlaps.
Shelly Graham, Mat Woods, November 2005

Chicken Scoop (4 pitches, crux grade 16)
A four pitch climb that begins lower on the face. First pitch is a stunner, 40 metres of bomber incuts and high steps with just enough gear. One pitch scramble to the outlier summit and a 50m abseil to the exit gully.
Paul Hersey, Manfred Oswald, November 2005.

West Face, Steeple Peak and outlier

West face of Stteple Peak, showing (left to right) Love Me Love My Zimmerframe, Wandering Flob, Zoe and Weta Prowl

Love Me Love My Zimmerframe (Grade 4-, Crux grade 16)
10-12 pitches on northern outlier of Steeple Peak. Begin at the lowest point of the outlier slab on the west side of Steeple Peak. Two pitches up through awkward corners (crux grade 16 with not much gear), then slight traverse left and up to a ledge at half height. Easier ground above (around grade 14) to top of outlier. Traverse down rock gully then across to link with the top pitches of Zoe.
Paul Hersey, Derek Chinn, January 2004

Wandering Flob (Grade 3+, Crux grade 16)
Six pitches plus some scrambling on fair to good rock and protection. Start in small corner approximately half way between Love Me Love My Zimmerframe and the right arete of the outlier of Steeple Peak. Tend left, then traverse towards the very left hand end of the obvious ledge system. Awesome belay spot here with good gear. From the ledge, tend slightly right for a full 60m up the solid wall with good gear, followed by a short pitch onto broken ground. Scramble upwards, following lines of weakness until 20m from summit, for one short exposed pitch to the summit. 
Robert Hughes-Games, Flynn Battaerd, February 2008

Zoe (Grade 3+, Crux grade 17)
On north side of Steeple Peak outlier. Seven pitches left of Weta Prowl. Crux 17, mostly 12-14 climbing on great red greywacke with good protection.
Paul Hersey, Mat Woods, November 2003, and February 2005.

Weta Prowl (Grade 3+, Crux grade 14)
On the centre of the shorter right hand, west facing wall. Climb the slab at about grade 14 between the two rock flanges to the ridge crest, and follow it to the summit. 300m height gain, plenty of protection on excellent rock.
Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, April 2002