NW Ridge, Mt Isabel

Grade 3- (Crux grade 14)

Traverse around the north side of Awatea Peak to access Isabel-Awatea Col. From the col, climb the ridge for about 150m on excellent rock at around grade 10/11. A short, exposed, rising traverse at around grade 12 (one 45m pitch) leads to an easy ledge and the base of a short steep corner. The corner is the crux of the route and goes at about grade 14. From the top of the corner, about 130m of steep scrambling leads to the summit. Descent was via the NE ridge (the original ascent route) to the Isabel-Eric Col, then down a short icefall back to the base of the route. The divide ridge was appallingly loose rock over several steep towers and the first ascensionists did three short abseils to get through.

Rob Frost, Simon Mills, March 2008

West Face, Peak 2151m

Grade 1 

Easy after breakfast walk up the valley due east of Top Hut.

Ross Cullen, March 2008

South West Face, Peak 2090m

8 pitches, crux grade 16-17

South Huxley

The face is broken into two tiers separated by a 200m wide scree terrace. The lower tier is 3 pitches in length plus scrambling (crux grade 14) and the upper tier is 5 pitches plus scrambling (crux 16-17). The rock was variable in quality, but it is possible to pick a route which avoids the dark brown/black choss. The good rock on the steep upper tier was mostly light grey with vertical shallow seams and just enough protection. Descent was by the loose knife-edged ridge to the south east.

Tony Clarke,  Hadley Slade-Jones, February 2008 

Mt Glen Lyon 2050m

Access
From the lower Hopkins valley, cross the Hopkins river and ascend the scree-filled gully leading north east toward the summit of the outlier of Glen Lyon to access a 500m high apline rock slab.

Climbs are described from left to right

Vote for Pedro (8-10 pitches, Crux Grade 15 - marked in blue)
Begin around 100m up into the gut, and climb the reasonably obvious diagonal corner to Dereks Escape Ledge at mid height. From there, climb the next pitch of Late Bloomer and traverse left (crux) to the arete. Climb two further pitches up the arete to the top.
Carl Schiller, Matteo Scoz, February 2008.

 Tenderfoot (8-10 pitches, crux grade 14-15, alpine grade 3+)
Climb the slab from left to right, topping out near 1900m contour.
Paul Hersey, Mat Woods May 2004, Paul Hersey and Shelly Graham, completed February 2005

Late Bloomer (8-10 pitches, crux grade 17)
Mat Woods, Dave Morgan, February 2005.

Vote for Hillary (6 pitches, crux grade 14/15)
Six pitches to the outlier, short scramble and two abseils off.
Paul Hersey, Mat Woods, January 2007.

Chossy Mossy (4 pitches, crux grade 15) 
Follow a wide crack followed by broken ledges just right of a huge overhanging scoop. Stemming crux is through overlaps.
Shelly Graham, Mat Woods, November 2005

Chicken Scoop (4 pitches, crux grade 16)
A four pitch climb that begins lower on the face. First pitch is a stunner, 40 metres of bomber incuts and high steps with just enough gear. One pitch scramble to the outlier summit and a 50m abseil to the exit gully.
Paul Hersey, Manfred Oswald, November 2005.

West Face, Steeple Peak and outlier

West face of Stteple Peak, showing (left to right) Love Me Love My Zimmerframe, Wandering Flob, Zoe and Weta Prowl

Love Me Love My Zimmerframe (Grade 4-, Crux grade 16)
10-12 pitches on northern outlier of Steeple Peak. Begin at the lowest point of the outlier slab on the west side of Steeple Peak. Two pitches up through awkward corners (crux grade 16 with not much gear), then slight traverse left and up to a ledge at half height. Easier ground above (around grade 14) to top of outlier. Traverse down rock gully then across to link with the top pitches of Zoe.
Paul Hersey, Derek Chinn, January 2004

Wandering Flob (Grade 3+, Crux grade 16)
Six pitches plus some scrambling on fair to good rock and protection. Start in small corner approximately half way between Love Me Love My Zimmerframe and the right arete of the outlier of Steeple Peak. Tend left, then traverse towards the very left hand end of the obvious ledge system. Awesome belay spot here with good gear. From the ledge, tend slightly right for a full 60m up the solid wall with good gear, followed by a short pitch onto broken ground. Scramble upwards, following lines of weakness until 20m from summit, for one short exposed pitch to the summit. 
Robert Hughes-Games, Flynn Battaerd, February 2008

Zoe (Grade 3+, Crux grade 17)
On north side of Steeple Peak outlier. Seven pitches left of Weta Prowl. Crux 17, mostly 12-14 climbing on great red greywacke with good protection.
Paul Hersey, Mat Woods, November 2003, and February 2005.

Weta Prowl (Grade 3+, Crux grade 14)
On the centre of the shorter right hand, west facing wall. Climb the slab at about grade 14 between the two rock flanges to the ridge crest, and follow it to the summit. 300m height gain, plenty of protection on excellent rock.
Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, April 2002

North East Ridge, Peak 2230m

Grade 1 

Peak 2230m from the NE. Red and blue lines show the ascent and descent routes, respectively.

Begin at G38 429723. Commence ascending the ridge via a weakness in the bluff (ledge or easy gully) to reach the broad tussock ridge at about 1300m. Gain height on the ridge turning steeper sections on the SE until reaching 2000m. Cross the ridge to the NW to reach top basin, traverse the snow and scree, and scramble up the rock pyramid to the summit. The kumara shaped tarn can be reached by descending the bluff below the upper basin, or by traversing from 1900m on the NE ridge to just above the tarn outlet.

Rob Blackburne, Ross Cullen, January 2008

East Ridge, Glen Lyon

Grade 1

Glen Lyon from the south. Red and blue lines show the ascent and descent routes, respectively.

From the Dobson, follow the stream up to Waterfall Basin and then head south to gain the col at 1900m on the east ridge. Follow the ridge to the summit. The descent was made from the col via a gully system to the south keeping to the true left of the prominent ravine. Several small bluffs and head high scrub were encountered in the lower section.

Ross Cullen, Pip Lynch and Phil Doole, Jan 2008

Mt Enderby East Peak

Grade 1 

Access the upper slopes via slopes just west of Cheap Creek. When near the summit pyramid, ascend snowfield then swing right to reach east ridge which is followed to the summit via steepish snow.

First ascent unknown, but climbed by Ross Cullen, Pip Lynch and James Barringer, December 2007. 

Fly on Little Wing, West Face of Dasler Pinnacles

Grade 5, WI4 

Start up the the obvious ice hose left of the summer line “Bedazzled“, then angle right up an easier snow slope to reach the big arete at about three quarters of the way up the face. Three pitches of hard mixed climbing up the arete to the summit. The first accent party took 17.5 hours to complete the climb from Daslers Bivouac.

Andrew Rennie and Tom Lanagan, July 2007

Twin Stream

Tachycardia (2 pitches; 22, 23)
On Shindig through the Heart and finishes on Lunch edge.
Steve Carr, Jonathon Clearwater, November 2003

Hot Wings (1 pitch; 24)
On Wingers Wall
Bill Bradshaw, April 2004

Wrinkle Buttress, 0.5 hour downstream
English Summer Daze (3 pitches: 18, 18, 18)
Begin 100m upstream and uphill from the prominent bulgy face with a roof at top on true left of Twin Stream. Ledges at end of each pitch.
Steve Carr, Jonathon Clearwater, November 2003

Mr Fizz (3 pitches; 14, 15, 22)
First pitch angles right, second pitch climbs left, the two stars third follows a crack system.
Bill Bradshaw, Steve Carr. April 2004