Barron Saddle – Mt Brewster: New Climbs

February, 2008

West Face, Steeple Peak and outlier

Filed under: Barrier Range Region — joppo @ 10:16 pm


West face of Stteple Peak, showing (left to right) Love Me Love My Zimmerframe, Wandering Flob, Zoe and Weta Prowl

Love Me Love My Zimmerframe (Grade 4-, Crux grade 16)
10-12 pitches on northern outlier of Steeple Peak. Begin at the lowest point of the outlier slab on the west side of Steeple Peak. Two pitches up through awkward corners (crux grade 16 with not much gear), then slight traverse left and up to a ledge at half height. Easier ground above (around grade 14) to top of outlier. Traverse down rock gully then across to link with the top pitches of Zoe.
Paul Hersey, Derek Chinn, January 2004

Wandering Flob (Grade 3+, Crux grade 16)
Six pitches plus some scrambling on fair to good rock and protection. Start in small corner approximately half way between Love Me Love My Zimmerframe and the right arete of the outlier of Steeple Peak. Tend left, then traverse towards the very left hand end of the obvious ledge system. Awesome belay spot here with good gear. From the ledge, tend slightly right for a full 60m up the solid wall with good gear, followed by a short pitch onto broken ground. Scramble upwards, following lines of weakness until 20m from summit, for one short exposed pitch to the summit. 
Robert Hughes-Games, Flynn Battaerd, February 2008

Zoe (Grade 3+, Crux grade 17)
On north side of Steeple Peak outlier. Seven pitches left of Weta Prowl. Crux 17, mostly 12-14 climbing on great red greywacke with good protection.
Paul Hersey, Mat Woods, November 2003, and February 2005.

Weta Prowl (Grade 3+, Crux grade 14)
On the centre of the shorter right hand, west facing wall. Climb the slab at about grade 14 between the two rock flanges to the ridge crest, and follow it to the summit. 300m height gain, plenty of protection on excellent rock.
Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, April 2002

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