Barron Saddle – Mt Brewster: New Climbs

About this site

This website is an update to the New Zealand Alpine Club’s Barron Saddle – Mt Brewster guidebook, which was published in 2002. You can find information here on all new routes climbed in the ranges between Aoraki Mount Cook and the Haast Pass since that guide was published. To log a potential new route, please email a description of the route and, if possible, a photograph with the route indicated to barronbrewster@alpineclub.org.nz.

The valleys covered include the Hopkins and Huxley, the Landsborough, and other West Coast valleys north of Haast Pass.

The ranges offer fine rock and snow climbs on peaks that are lower and less glaciated than those at Mount Cook, though there are many climbs of a technical nature.

This mountainous region contains some superb alpine country. Its delights include major rivers, tussock valleys and tops, attractive beech forest, and five mountain ranges including the Main Divide with peaks reaching a highest point of 2746m altitude.

The valleys are popular tramping regions but fewer climbers visit the area, perhaps because all the prominent peaks have now been climbed, and and none reach the magic height of 3000 metres. However for those who appreciate superb river, bush, rock and snow vistas, are tired of moraine bashing, and enjoy the chance to tackle peaks of moderate altitude and difficulty, the region continues to charm.

Thoughtful climbers who enjoy some research continue to find unclimbed routes on the ridges and faces of the major peaks. Recent years have seen some excellent technical alpine rock climbs uncovered, especially on the Ben Ohau Range and the Temple valley.

Twenty-three peaks in the region exceed 2500 metres in altitude. They provide an array of climbing experiences, ranging from highly accessable Glentanner Peak to isolated Mount Strachan, from heavily glaciated Mount Dechen to rock glacier-flanked Dun Fiunary Peak, and from the gendarme-like Black Tower Peak to the vast massif of Mount Hooker.

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