North Ridge, Pk1975m

Grade 2

Begin at the pronounced rock butress at NZMS498687 and follow the ridge to the reach a point just to the east of Pk1975. A rope may be needed in places on the lower section. It is easy to traverse off the ridge once above the lower butress.

Paul Hersey, Scott Blackford-Scheele, September 2008

West Face, Steeple Peak and outlier

West face of Stteple Peak, showing (left to right) Love Me Love My Zimmerframe, Wandering Flob, Zoe and Weta Prowl

Love Me Love My Zimmerframe (Grade 4-, Crux grade 16)
10-12 pitches on northern outlier of Steeple Peak. Begin at the lowest point of the outlier slab on the west side of Steeple Peak. Two pitches up through awkward corners (crux grade 16 with not much gear), then slight traverse left and up to a ledge at half height. Easier ground above (around grade 14) to top of outlier. Traverse down rock gully then across to link with the top pitches of Zoe.
Paul Hersey, Derek Chinn, January 2004

Wandering Flob (Grade 3+, Crux grade 16)
Six pitches plus some scrambling on fair to good rock and protection. Start in small corner approximately half way between Love Me Love My Zimmerframe and the right arete of the outlier of Steeple Peak. Tend left, then traverse towards the very left hand end of the obvious ledge system. Awesome belay spot here with good gear. From the ledge, tend slightly right for a full 60m up the solid wall with good gear, followed by a short pitch onto broken ground. Scramble upwards, following lines of weakness until 20m from summit, for one short exposed pitch to the summit. 
Robert Hughes-Games, Flynn Battaerd, February 2008

Zoe (Grade 3+, Crux grade 17)
On north side of Steeple Peak outlier. Seven pitches left of Weta Prowl. Crux 17, mostly 12-14 climbing on great red greywacke with good protection.
Paul Hersey, Mat Woods, November 2003, and February 2005.

Weta Prowl (Grade 3+, Crux grade 14)
On the centre of the shorter right hand, west facing wall. Climb the slab at about grade 14 between the two rock flanges to the ridge crest, and follow it to the summit. 300m height gain, plenty of protection on excellent rock.
Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, April 2002

Chess Geeks, Pakeke Peak 2237m

Grade 3+

West branch, South Temple Stream
Aim for a right tending ledge system that leads to a slab in the centre of the face. An eight pitch rock climb plus simul climb on reasonable rock, crux grade 14. To descend, head straight down the steep notch on the other side of the summit ridge for one pitch or abseil, then traverse left across broken rock down to easier ledges.

Dannie Baille, Paul Hersey, February 2007

The Fend, Peak 2124m

Grade 3-

 

West branch, South Temple Stream
From the head of west branch South Temple stream, Climb the 40-55 degree narrow shute between Peak 2124m and Pakeke Peak to reach the ridge. Once on the ridge traverse easily to Peak 2124m. Stone fall is a possibility.

Paul Hersey, Mat Woods, November 2006

The Grrr Room, Peak 2200m

Grade WI2 to WI4, 6 pitches in total.

Main Branch, South Temple Stream

Just below west side of 2200m. Three pitches, first two thin, with tied off ice screws, a fat steep third pitch WI4, then onto upper snowfield. One abseil on descent down gully to right.
Paul Hersey, Matt Woods, August 2006.

Three pitches added to the bottom of the route. Climb the small water ice steps in the lower gully, that can fill in with snow later in the season.
Paul Hersey, Graham Zimmerman, July 2007.

Temple of Doom

Grade M6/WI4

North Temple Stream
Just over the hill at the head of the accessible North Temple. The winter potential in this steep corner has been noticed for a while, and Kester’s comment “a great climb with an exciting first pitch followed by a short pillar then eighty metres of climbing of lower angle with some steeper bulges” suggests it easily met their expectations.

Kester Brown and Jono Clarke, Winter 2006.

East Ridge, Mt Hiwiroa 2281m

Grade 1 

South Branch, South Temple Stream
Cross the south branch of the South Temple stream before the gorge, near 497694 on G38. Ascend the steep slope through the beech forest close to the crest of the ridge. Once open ground is reached continue along the ridgeline to the summit. The first ascent party did not use the rope. Seven hours from carpark to summit.

Ross Cullen, Nick Shearer, March 2006.

Dry As A Bone, Steeple Peak

Grade 15

Main Branch, South Temple Stream
To the right of Weta Prowl, finishing up a flake tucked up against the final steep buttress, to join Weta Prowl near the top.

Alan Hill, Hamish Reid, February 2006

South Face, Peak 2200m

Grade 3

Main Branch, South Temple Stream 
Climb central gully. Crux 25 m high narrow water ice gut, up to 75 degrees and short thinly iced rock step. Overall grade 3.

Paul Hersey, Matt Woods, July 2005

Soft Tahrget, Prominent buttress between Steeple Peak and Peak 2200m

Grade 14/15

South Branch, South Temple Stream
Start in the notch at lowest point of buttress, climbing up a corner and out onto the face. Continue up and through some steep moves to near the ridgeline and on excellent rock towards the top. Easy descent towards Steeple peak. Protection and rock quality similar to Weta Prowl. 125 m height gain.

Jamie Foxley, February 2005.