Barron Saddle – Mt Brewster: New Climbs

January, 2009

Twin Stream

Filed under: Ben Ohau Range — joppo @ 10:01 pm

Tachycardia (2 pitches; 22, 23)
On Shindig through the Heart and finishes on Lunch edge.
Steve Carr, Jonathon Clearwater, November 2003

Hot Wings (1 pitch; 24)
On Wingers Wall
Bill Bradshaw, April 2004

Wrinkle Buttress, 0.5 hour downstream
English Summer Daze (3 pitches: 18, 18, 18)
Begin 100m upstream and uphill from the prominent bulgy face with a roof at top on true left of Twin Stream. Ledges at end of each pitch.
Steve Carr, Jonathon Clearwater, November 2003

Mr Fizz (3 pitches; 14, 15, 22)
First pitch angles right, second pitch climbs left, the two stars third follows a crack system.
Bill Bradshaw, Steve Carr. April 2004

January Hare (1 pitch; 16; 30m)
From the top of March Hare, climb the left face and arete to the top of the pinnacle. Protection is trad. Abseil off a bollard.
Cliff Ellery, Richard Knot, January 2009

October, 2004

South Face, Dun Fiunary 2500m

Filed under: Ben Ohau Range — Richard Thomson @ 10:55 pm

Grade 4

Climb the obvious couloir in the centre of the south face. The first pitch is 45 m of steep and thin ice, followed by more moderate climbing. There are a couple of steeper ice steps before the gully reaches the ridge 20 m from the summit.

Kynan Bazely, Antony Bush, October 2004.

July, 2004

Peak 2319m

Filed under: Ben Ohau Range — joppo @ 10:01 pm

Grade 2

Jacks Stream
Begin in easy slanting gully on right hand side of the face. When the gully steepens and narrows, move onto the rock buttress on the left. Climb the rock for two pitches, grade 14 crux then ascend the upper snowfield to the summit.

Kynan Bazely, Paul Hersey, July 2004.

July, 2002

Bush Stream

Filed under: Ben Ohau Range — joppo @ 9:40 pm

The ice climbing potential on Mt Brown and on nearby cliffs in Bush Stream, first explored by Erin Hawke and Dave Williams in 2002, was strongly exploited by Mal Haskins and friends during July and August 2003. Eight new ice climbs were completed, five on the south face of Mt Brown and three across the valley on the toe of Mt Dark. The climbs on the shady (north) side of the valley are:

Gateway 55m WI3+, 1 pitch
Mal Haskins, Dave Williams, Alex Cottle

Having a Cadbury Moment 45m WI 3+, 1 pitch
Mal Haskins, Brad Miller

Diving in at the Deep End 50m WI 3+, 1 pitch.
Mal Haskins, Paula Roberts, Rob Dunn

Beginners Luck 50M WI 2/3, 1 pitch.
Top Roped by Mal Haskins, Paula Roberts, Rob Dunn
First free ascent by Mal Haskins, Brad Miller

The Thin White Line 160m WI 3+/4, 3 pitches.
Mal Haskins, Brad Miller.

On the sunny (south) side of valley:

Toto We Ain’t in Canada No More 160m WI 3+/4, 3 pitches.
Mal Haskins, Saul

The Portal 20 m WI 2 is the access pitch to TRBB.
Mal Haskins, Thomas Shaovitts

The Reality Bird Bath, 150m WI 4+/5, 5 pitches of which pitches 4 and 5 can be seen from the road.
Mal Haskins, Thomas Shaovitts.

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