These are the known routes on the north/west face of the Dasler Pinnacles. From left to right, the routes are Bestowed (red), Fly on little wing (winter ascent – yellow), Bedazzled (light blue), Flywheel (orange), Petit Peuterey D (dark blue). There may be additional routes and we do not have a lot of information on several of the indicated routes. if you have any additions, comments or corrections, please email them to barronbrewster@alpineclub.org.nz
Access
From the lower Hopkins valley, cross the Hopkins river and ascend the scree-filled gully leading north east toward the summit of the outlier of Glen Lyon to access a 500m high apline rock slab.
Climbs are described from left to right
Vote for Pedro (8-10 pitches, Crux Grade 15 – marked in blue)
Begin around 100m up into the gut, and climb the reasonably obvious diagonal corner to Dereks Escape Ledge at mid height. From there, climb the next pitch of Late Bloomer and traverse left (crux) to the arete. Climb two further pitches up the arete to the top.
Carl Schiller, Matteo Scoz, February 2008.
Tenderfoot (8-10 pitches, crux grade 14-15, alpine grade 3+)
Climb the slab from left to right, topping out near 1900m contour.
Paul Hersey, Mat Woods May 2004, Paul Hersey and Shelly Graham, completed February 2005
Late Bloomer (8-10 pitches, crux grade 17)
Mat Woods, Dave Morgan, February 2005.
Vote for Hillary (6 pitches, crux grade 14/15)
Six pitches to the outlier, short scramble and two abseils off.
Paul Hersey, Mat Woods, January 2007.
Chossy Mossy (4 pitches, crux grade 15)
Follow a wide crack followed by broken ledges just right of a huge overhanging scoop. Stemming crux is through overlaps.
Shelly Graham, Mat Woods, November 2005
Chicken Scoop (4 pitches, crux grade 16)
A four pitch climb that begins lower on the face. First pitch is a stunner, 40 metres of bomber incuts and high steps with just enough gear. One pitch scramble to the outlier summit and a 50m abseil to the exit gully.
Paul Hersey, Manfred Oswald, November 2005.
Grade 5, WI4
Start up the the obvious ice hose left of the summer line “Bedazzled“, then angle right up an easier snow slope to reach the big arete at about three quarters of the way up the face. Three pitches of hard mixed climbing up the arete to the summit. The first accent party took 17.5 hours to complete the climb from Daslers Bivouac.
Andrew Rennie and Tom Lanagan, July 2007
Grade 3
Paradise Valley
Ascend the snow basin below the east ridge, then traverse onto shattered rock. Descent via the west ridge is on good but steep rock. The overall GT is about grade 4.
Shelley Graham, Graham Zimmerman, April 2007
Grade 4+, WI3.
Paradise Valley
A 500m ice lyline on the south face, right side. Grade 4+, WI3. Follows a sustained gully system for eight to ten pitches starting at the valley floor and topping out on a spur below the east ridge.
Paul Hersey, Graham Zimmerman, September 2006.
1100m line to the left of Orinoco Flow, simul-soloed.
James Edwards, Steven Fortune, Paul Warnock, August 2005
A 12 pitch climb that commences on a snowslope 100m right of the Blackburne-Cullen line. Climb through some mixed terrain to a right leaning snowslope. From there, a series of ice runnels lead straight up linking with the terrain at the top of Blackburne-Cullen route. Descended by downclimbing the north east face and onto Foster Glacier, with one abseil into North Elcho.
Kynan Bazely, Paul Hersey, August 2004
Grade ?
Paradise Valley
A four pitch ice climb through the left side of the lower tier.
Thomas Evans, Jackson Green, June 2004
Grade 1+
Access to the south face of Reticent can be gained via the stream joining the Hopkins River 3 km north of Dodger Hut. Follow watercourse into the basin, angle past moraine onto the snowfield and climb the snowfield aiming for the ridge 200m west of the summit. Easy travel along ridge to high point.
Ross Cullen, Kevin Hammond, Rebecca Smith, January 2004.
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