Barron Saddle – Mt Brewster: New Climbs

April, 2007

South West Ridge, Celtic Peak 2198m

Filed under: Hunter Valley Region — joppo @ 7:26 pm

Grade 1 

celtic.jpg

From the upper Dingle, travel up dry tributary valley under imposing south face to reach ridgeline. Easy travel along SW ridge overlooking Hunter valley to reach the summit pyramid. Head up centre till mid-height, then angle left on a ramp and follow easy ground to summit. Descent to north and large tarn in head of Dingle Burn

Ross Cullen, Pip Lynch, April 2007

April, 2006

Peaks 1971 and 2010

Filed under: Hunter Valley Region — Richard Thomson @ 5:46 pm

Up the Makarora River to the hut then west to Peaks 1971 and 2010 on the Main Divide. Return via Boundary Spur. Map ref: west corner of NZMS 260 G38.

Paul Hersey, Shelley Graham, Lydia Bradey, April 2006.

March, 2003

Zwieback, Highlander Peak 2285m

Filed under: Hunter Valley Region — joppo @ 7:29 pm

Begin at top of snowcone near the centre of the north west face, angle leftward for two easy pitches to gain crest of rib. Follow rib for five pitches of pleasant climbing up to grade 14 to reach the summit ridge 25m north of the high point. Descent via same route.

Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, March 2003

December, 2002

Waka Jumping, Leaning Mount 2077m

Filed under: Hunter Valley Region — Richard Thomson @ 5:44 pm

Grade 13

Access
Leaning Mount is on the Huxley Range 30km south of Mt Huxley. It can be accessed in 6-7 hours from the Ahuriri valley. From the carpark near the locked gate in the Ahuriri valley, 4 km beyond Birchwod Station, cross the eastern part of the Huxley range, and drop down into the Dingle Burn. Follow the Dingle Burn downstream for 2.5 km to a junction with a side stream and walk up that side valley to a campsite near the south face of Leaning Mount.

Leaning Mountain 

Route
Begin from snowfield near the centre of the south face, angling rightward. Cross a minor snow shute, and climb past the TV slab. Continue up the narrowing ramp to reach the summit ridge. 13 pitches of climbing up to grade 13, but little protection available. Descend by abseiling off the waka taua, then over the low summit and down the east ridge.

Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, December 2002.

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