Up the Makarora River to the hut then west to Peaks 1971 and 2010 on the Main Divide. Return via Boundary Spur. Map ref: west corner of NZMS 260 G38.
Paul Hersey, Shelley Graham, Lydia Bradey, April 2006.
Grade 13
Access
Leaning Mount is on the Huxley Range 30km south of Mt Huxley. It can be accessed in 6-7 hours from the Ahuriri valley. From the carpark near the locked gate in the Ahuriri valley, 4 km beyond Birchwod Station, cross the eastern part of the Huxley range, and drop down into the Dingle Burn. Follow the Dingle Burn downstream for 2.5 km to a junction with a side stream and walk up that side valley to a campsite near the south face of Leaning Mount.
Route
Begin from snowfield near the centre of the south face, angling rightward. Cross a minor snow shute, and climb past the TV slab. Continue up the narrowing ramp to reach the summit ridge. 13 pitches of climbing up to grade 13, but little protection available. Descend by abseiling off the waka taua, then over the low summit and down the east ridge.
Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, December 2002.