NW Ridge, Mt Isabel

Grade 3- (Crux grade 14)

Traverse around the north side of Awatea Peak to access Isabel-Awatea Col. From the col, climb the ridge for about 150m on excellent rock at around grade 10/11. A short, exposed, rising traverse at around grade 12 (one 45m pitch) leads to an easy ledge and the base of a short steep corner. The corner is the crux of the route and goes at about grade 14. From the top of the corner, about 130m of steep scrambling leads to the summit. Descent was via the NE ridge (the original ascent route) to the Isabel-Eric Col, then down a short icefall back to the base of the route. The divide ridge was appallingly loose rock over several steep towers and the first ascensionists did three short abseils to get through.

Rob Frost, Simon Mills, March 2008

North Ridge, Mt Hopkins

Grade 5+

Descending from Le Blanc Glacier, if the narrow gully is broken head on to a ledge on its true left (just above where the gully narrows). Three 50m abseils to valley floor. The bottom half of the buttress is actually two ridges which merge at half height. The left one (looking up) has better rock, easy soloing (grade 10) for 500m till reaching a snow shelf. Head up and start again up ramps on the upper buttress. Another 100m of solid grade 12 solo, then 500m of sustained grade 14-17 climbing (20+ pitches, we simul-climbed some sections). The technical crux is high on the route.

Overall, the climb increases throughout in technical nature and commitment, including very exposed summit ridge traversing. The rock is generally of good to very good quality with enough protection, although there are some loose plates high up.

Kynan Bazely, Paul Hersey, January 2006.