North East Ridge, Peak 2230m

Grade 1 

Peak 2230m from the NE. Red and blue lines show the ascent and descent routes, respectively.

Begin at G38 429723. Commence ascending the ridge via a weakness in the bluff (ledge or easy gully) to reach the broad tussock ridge at about 1300m. Gain height on the ridge turning steeper sections on the SE until reaching 2000m. Cross the ridge to the NW to reach top basin, traverse the snow and scree, and scramble up the rock pyramid to the summit. The kumara shaped tarn can be reached by descending the bluff below the upper basin, or by traversing from 1900m on the NE ridge to just above the tarn outlet.

Rob Blackburne, Ross Cullen, January 2008

East Ridge, Glen Lyon

Grade 1

Glen Lyon from the south. Red and blue lines show the ascent and descent routes, respectively.

From the Dobson, follow the stream up to Waterfall Basin and then head south to gain the col at 1900m on the east ridge. Follow the ridge to the summit. The descent was made from the col via a gully system to the south keeping to the true left of the prominent ravine. Several small bluffs and head high scrub were encountered in the lower section.

Ross Cullen, Pip Lynch and Phil Doole, Jan 2008

Mt Enderby East Peak

Grade 1 

Access the upper slopes via slopes just west of Cheap Creek. When near the summit pyramid, ascend snowfield then swing right to reach east ridge which is followed to the summit via steepish snow.

First ascent unknown, but climbed by Ross Cullen, Pip Lynch and James Barringer, December 2007. 

Fly on Little Wing, West Face of Dasler Pinnacles

Grade 5, WI4 

Start up the the obvious ice hose left of the summer line “Bedazzled“, then angle right up an easier snow slope to reach the big arete at about three quarters of the way up the face. Three pitches of hard mixed climbing up the arete to the summit. The first accent party took 17.5 hours to complete the climb from Daslers Bivouac.

Andrew Rennie and Tom Lanagan, July 2007

South West Ridge, Celtic Peak 2198m

Grade 1 

From the upper Dingle, travel up dry tributary valley under imposing south face to reach ridgeline. Easy travel along SW ridge overlooking Hunter valley to reach the summit pyramid. Head up centre till mid-height, then angle left on a ramp and follow easy ground to summit. Descent to north and large tarn in head of Dingle Burn

Ross Cullen, Pip Lynch, April 2007

East Ridge, Taiaha Peak 2241m (formerly John Thomas Peak)

Grade 3

 

Paradise Valley
Ascend the snow basin below the east ridge, then traverse onto shattered rock. Descent via the west ridge is on good but steep rock. The overall GT is about grade 4.

Shelley Graham, Graham Zimmerman, April 2007

South West Ridge, Peak 2038m

Grade 1

Leave Ahuriri valley 1km north of Watsons Pond and climb through beech forest to gain the south west ridge. Ascend five of six rock steps en route to the summit.

Ross Cullen, Nick Shearer, February 2007

Chess Geeks, Pakeke Peak 2237m

Grade 3+

West branch, South Temple Stream
Aim for a right tending ledge system that leads to a slab in the centre of the face. An eight pitch rock climb plus simul climb on reasonable rock, crux grade 14. To descend, head straight down the steep notch on the other side of the summit ridge for one pitch or abseil, then traverse left across broken rock down to easier ledges.

Dannie Baille, Paul Hersey, February 2007

Hey I Ordered A Cheeseburger, South Face, Mount Huxley

Grade 4-

 

Ascend the obvious 700metre high spur on the south face to Mount Huxley’s eastern (2300m) summit. Crux grade 16, overall grade 4-

Danny Baillie, Paul Hersey, January 2007

The Fend, Peak 2124m

Grade 3-

 

West branch, South Temple Stream
From the head of west branch South Temple stream, Climb the 40-55 degree narrow shute between Peak 2124m and Pakeke Peak to reach the ridge. Once on the ridge traverse easily to Peak 2124m. Stone fall is a possibility.

Paul Hersey, Mat Woods, November 2006