North Ridge, Mt Hopkins

Grade 5+

Descending from Le Blanc Glacier, if the narrow gully is broken head on to a ledge on its true left (just above where the gully narrows). Three 50m abseils to valley floor. The bottom half of the buttress is actually two ridges which merge at half height. The left one (looking up) has better rock, easy soloing (grade 10) for 500m till reaching a snow shelf. Head up and start again up ramps on the upper buttress. Another 100m of solid grade 12 solo, then 500m of sustained grade 14-17 climbing (20+ pitches, we simul-climbed some sections). The technical crux is high on the route.

Overall, the climb increases throughout in technical nature and commitment, including very exposed summit ridge traversing. The rock is generally of good to very good quality with enough protection, although there are some loose plates high up.

Kynan Bazely, Paul Hersey, January 2006.